Breakfast in Bridgetown

Just in from Sapphire Hotel’s weekend brunch, and first off, it fits a recent pattern. I was at Montage for bunch last week, and both of them are obviously geared mainly for night-time. In Montage’s case, I think it might be to hide some, uh, rough spots — and also because it’s a New Orleans styled place, so it feels kind of hungover and spent during the day.

With the Sapphire, they are clearly going for an evening vibe at all hours, with kind of a vintage angle. With its hanging lampshades, throw cushions on the benches, vaguely Asian artwork, and nine fancy cocktails on the menu, they’re all about being cozy and intimate. Obviously, this would be more effective when the sun isn’t shining.

And speaking of, um, intimacy … not only does their website claim that the place used to be a brothel — see my ruminations on that here — they even have a a flashing neon “RED” light up in the corner. In fact, on their website they take the whole thing to a really romantic extreme:

The Sapphire Hotel was originally a turn of the century seedy hotel in Portland Oregon inhabited by sailors, travelers and ladies of the night. They rented rooms by the week, night or by the hour and spent long days and evenings in the lobby drinking, laughing, eating, talking and kissing.

Sounds downright sweet, doesn’t it? It’s not like there were “hookers” and “vagrants” and “cheating husbands” hanging around; just sailors and ladies of the night. So the Sapphire definitely hits all the comfy/luxury/sexy buttons, and even during the day, I have to say, it works pretty well.

Might as well run through some of those cocktails. I am still in need of a booze consultant (apply via comment to this post), but their calling card seems to be the Alotta Mimosa, which is $10 all-you-can-drink, available at brunch only. (A single is$6) There’s also a Bellini, Bloody Mary, a Bloody Mick (the Mary plus a bacon salt rim, a drizzle of Worcestershire, and a steak garnish), a Gin Fizz, and the Elixir, with New Deal Vodka, muddled with cucumber and lemon and mixed with Monavie’s blend of Acai berry and 19 other fruits. Damn!

By the way, did I mention the sexy vibe? The evening cocktail menu offers such drinks as The Other Woman, Eve and Apple, and the Naughty Toddy.

I wanted a cappuccino, but there are no espresso drinks here. You’re welcome, though, to head next door to Albina Press and bring something in. And my Tea Consultant will probably be happy to hear that Sapphire serves Foxfire Tea in a French press. Stumptown is their coffee.

The brunch menu has some interesting things going on, at least in name. I had a Benedict with crimini mushrooms; it was supposed to also have oyster mushrooms, but they were out. Alice had the Salmon Corn Cakes, which were about the size and shape of falafel patties, served with stoneground mustard aioli; for another buck it could also be a Benedict. Steve went with the Sweet Potato and Yam Frittata (with kale, chard, smoked Maasdam and Sriracha sour cream*) and it occurred to me that for all the confusion between those two tubers, I’ve never seen them served together. One wonders who can tell which is which.

(*In a related note, I have no idea what these items are. Do you?)

Honestly, I wasn’t blown away by the food. Maybe I’ve had too many breakfasts lately, but I thought it was … fine. All cooked well, looked great, I wasn’t disappointed, but nothing really popped to me. Steve and Alice both liked it very much, and by the time we left the place was quickly filling up. So maybe others are just less jaded than I am. It’s the kind of place, like Toast and Pambiche, that if you told me you love it, I wouldn’t think you’re nuts.

I did enjoy the experience very much and would recommend it for a relaxed, no-line, solid brunch along Hawthorne — especially if the old timey/vintage/brothel vibe is your gig. And if I had a date late-night, I’d sure as heck take her down there for some dessert.

An interesting find, glad I went. Look forward to slightly better meals elsewhere.

Sapphire Hotel, 5008 SE Hawthorne, (503) 232-6333. Brunch served weekends 9 to 2. Price Range: $13-16 with coffee and tip. Cocktails around $7. Cards accepted. Feel-goods: They “make every effort to use only local, organic produce and natural, free-range beef and eggs.” Seating: All inside, could handle big groups with some notice. Wait: Didn’t look like it.